Winter Wonders on Islay: Whisky, Beaches, and December’s Enchanting Light

Winter might not be the first season that comes to mind for a Scottish island escape. However, Islay offers a charm all its own during the colder months. Known as the “Queen of the Hebrides,” Islay blends breathtaking coastal beauty with a rich whisky heritage, warm hospitality, and delightful local businesses, making it a must-visit destination in winter.
Andy, my husband and I have visited Islay for a winter break for the past few years. The first visit was in December 2020, when Scotland was covid tiered. Argyll and Bute and the Scottish Borders were in the areas you could travel. Our desire to be on a Scottish island was acute by then. So, we decided to return to Islay. It did not disappoint. After a year of being cooped up at home, it was just the tonic we needed. We also discovered then that Islay in December is very special. So we kept returning and enjoyed another winter break there a few weeks ago.
The Journey Begins: MV Finlaggan
The adventure started aboard the MV Finlaggan. This is one of my favourite Cal Mac ferries made in Poland. The interior décor has an Easter European vibe, making it stand out. But its standout feature is the friendly team. We find Cal Mac teams very friendly, particularly the Finlaggan team.
The trip also got off to a great start when I found that the special for the day was lasagne, my ultimate dish on a Cal Mac ferry. We were under a weather warning, but until we reached Port Asaig, I thought it was a smooth trip. Then, I realised how much swell there was. We made it in but were on the last ferry of the day.
Dining in Comfort: Bridgend Hotel
We spent the first night at the Bridgend Hotel and had lunch there on Monday. The pub has a roaring fire, lots of whiskies and gins, a focus on local produce, and the best steak sandwich I’ve had this year. We also enjoyed the banter of locals and visitors.
https://www.bridgend-hotel.com/
Exploring Islay’s Shops
Winter on Islay is the ideal time to explore its charming local shops, each offering unique treasures:
Celtic House Bookshop
This gem in Bowmore is a haven for book lovers. From local history and folklore to contemporary fiction, the shelves are brimming with stories that capture the spirit of the Hebrides. I said I wouldn’t but did come away with two books, one of which was read by a fire looking out to the shore at Bruichladdich.
The shop also has some great gifts and a warm welcome. It is also a coffee shop with the best hot chocolate.
https://www.theceltichouse.co.uk/

Hot Chocolate
The Islay Soap Company
Specialising in handmade soaps and skincare products infused with natural ingredients like seaweed and heather. A few Christmas presents were bought, plus the annual Candle. The glass is made from a Lussa Gin bottle. I love the connection between business and business in Islay and Jura.
Distillery Delights: Bowmore
We had never been to Bowmore Distillery, so shame on us. Next time, we’ll take a tour, but this time, we enjoyed browsing the shops and the opportunity to purchase some miniatures for a work dinner my husband had later in the month.
https://www.bowmore.com/en-gb/distillery
Beach Walks and Winter Serenity
Islay’s beaches are magical year-round but particularly special in winter. Wrapped up in warm layers, taking into account Billy Connolly’s advise
“In Scotland, there’s no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong clothes.”
Much of our time was spent wandering the many beaches of Islay, including:
Big Strand
Big Strand is Islay’s longest beach. Stretching over seven miles, its windswept sands and dramatic waves were mesmerising. Even in the chill of winter, the beauty and solitude were worth every step, particularly as we walked with friends, our dog, and their dogs on a glorious blue-sky winter day.
Machir Bay
Another favourite, Machir Bay, offered golden sands framed by rolling dunes. It has a special place in my heart as it’s the first beach we took my daughter to when she was a few months old. It was also a favourite of Lucky, our dog, who was on 34 islands with us and passed this year. I can still see him running on that beach.
The Enchanting December Light
One of the most remarkable aspects of visiting Islay in December is the quality of the light. The low winter sun casts a golden glow over the landscape, illuminating the rugged hills and sparkling seas with a soft radiance. Sunrises are an event in themselves, with the sky transforming into a palette of pinks, oranges, and purples that reflect beautifully off the water. Evenings are equally stunning, as sunsets bathe the island in warm, amber tones, creating picture-perfect moments long after the sun dips below the horizon.
Islay in winter is a true hidden gem, offering a perfect blend of adventure, relaxation, and culture. Whether you’re a whisky connoisseur, a nature enthusiast, or someone who loves discovering local crafts and flavours, the island has something special waiting for you.
Ready to plan your own unforgettable Islay experience? Visit https://islayjura.com/. Special thanks to Emma and Graeme Clarke, with whom we enjoyed the glorious walk on Big Strand, followed by homemade soup and bread to warm us up. A visit to their award-winning Bed and Breakfast is highly recommended: https://glenegedalehouse.co.uk/
We can make Scotland a must-visit in winter, as I know from my experience how special it is at this time of year.

Andrew Drane